Castor

Between the Ayas valley and the Gressoney valley, two summits stand side by side: Castor and Pollux. Castor is the higher of the two, at 4,223 metres. The border with Switzerland runs along its crest.

The twins

The two summits are named after the twins of Greek mythology, Castor and Pollux, who also gave their names to the two brightest stars in the constellation of Gemini. The name suits these two almost identical peaks, separated by a pass.

A first ascent in 1861

Castor was first climbed on 23 August 1861 by two English mountaineers, William Mathews and Frederick Jacomb, with the Chamonix guide Michel Croz. Croz is also known for having taken part, four years later, in the first ascent of the Matterhorn.

A fine snow ridge

The most popular route starts from the Quintino Sella hut, on the Félik glacier. You climb to the Félik col, then follow a narrow, airy snow ridge to the summit. In fine weather it is one of the most elegant routes in the massif. It is still a glacier climb, with crevasses and exposed sections.

Getting there

Quintino Sella hut at the Félik (3,585 m)
Félik glacier
11020 Gressoney-La-Trinité (AO)
+39 0125 366 113 · rifugioquintinosella.com

The hut is reached from the Bettaforca pass, above Champoluc and Gressoney, along a rocky ridge and then the glacier. For the climb to the summit, it is best to go with a mountain guide.